THE OZYMANDIAS COLLECTIVE'S DIRECT ACTION & SABOTAGE HANDBOOK

VOLUME 2

2. BASIC MECHANICAL SYSTEMS

2.1. The basic elements of mechanical systems

To do real damage to any system this is how you must look at the target of the hit - a collection of vulnerable parts.

An earth mover, for example, is not a simple machine. It is a complex system comprising...
* Mechanical systems with moving parts, hinges, cables and bearings;
* Engines, using petrol or diesel as a fuel, which provide power to the whole system;
* Electric motors which convert electrical energy into mechanical motion, or turn compressors or pumps to move fluids;
* Hydraulic and pneumatic systems which develop the large forces necessary to drive the machines excevators;
* Electrical systems which run lights, valves and the control instrumentation;
* Static devices, not directly involved in the main system, such as locks, radios/communications equipment, and security systems.

All these elements come together to create that which we call an earth mover. Therefore, to effectively disable, or preferable write-off the subject of the hit, you need to have a working knowledge of each of the individual systems. The alternative would be to learn about the system itself - a standard JCB for example, but learning about the principles of how these machines work in general is preferable because the knowledge is more easily applied to any situation you may encounter.

In terms on machines in general, when you conduct your scoping exercise while planning the hit, or while you assess the problem when you are first presented with the system you wish to disable, you should ask yourself a simple series of questions...
1. Where does the power com from (the source)? (e.g. electrical, engines, electric motors, etc.);
2. How is the power moved around (the conduit)? (e.g. electrical cables, mechanical rods/shafts, hydraulic or pneumatic systems);
3. Where is the power expended (the sink)? (e.g. hydraulic rams, electric motors, mechanical arms or electrical components);
4. How is the movement or conversion of power regulated (control systems)? (e.g. valves, control panels, switches or automated computer controllers);
5. Does the operation of these parts involve lubricating or cooling of devices? (e.g. engine oil sump, pipes delivering lubricating fluid, chillers/refrigerators, air cooling or water cooling).

By systematically taking these five criteria, and applying them to your system (with practice it will become second nature) you will be able to identify the key parts of the system, and hence the key weaknesses. You can then plan the appropriate steps and requisition the appropriate tools with which to carry out the hit.

For example, in an earth mover, the major mechanical parts are built of extremely tough materials because they must survive in a harsh environment, under extreme load conditions. For this reason taking on the arms of the machine, or cutting its hydraulic system, causes little real damage. On the other hand, the fact that the entire system relies on the provision of power from one diesel engine means that by taking out that engine, using grinding powder in the sump or ball bearings in the cylinders, you deny power to the system. On the other hand a complex manufactoring plan may rely on computerised control systems, in which case damaging these is more effective than removing the power supply, or damaging individual parts of the machines.

2.2. Power sources

All mechanisms need energy to function. This energy can be derived from a number of sources...
* Electrical energy: Electricity supplied in cables, or in more complex systems, which may be generated from other energy sources within the system;
* Electrical potential energy: This is really a category used to differentiate supplied electrical energy from electrical energy stored. There are many systems, from computers to industrial plants and road vehicles, that rely on the storage of energy within some form of battery to help them operate. Batteries contain potential energy because it does not actually exist as electrical current, but rather as charges on the atoms of chemical compound which are release as part of chemical reactions;
* Chemical energy: Fuels which contain energy, such as petrol, diesel, and methane or propane gas, can be utilised within machines as a heat source, or within engines as a source of kinetic energy;
* Kinetic energy: Kinetic basically means movement - that is turning of drive shafts or the push/pull of connecting roads. Many pulled units, farm machinery is the main example, are powered by kinetic energy supplied by a drive shaft which plugs into the tractor's engine (this is called a Power Take-Off, PTO).

Denying the source of energy to any system is the most effective way of shutting it down - but sometimes this is only a temporary setback for the operator...
* Destroying or removing the battery from the system is only temporary because batteries are easily replaced;
* Removing the electrical supply by cutting cables is very temporary as cables can be replaced in a day. even a mains trunk cable can be repaired in just one or two days;
* Removing fuel from the system is very temporary - you only have to fill up the machine again, or new supplied can be ordered or bought the same day.

It is therefore obvious that cutting energy sources is only effective when it includes other forms of damage. For example, rather then just spiking or removing the fuel from a generator, it is always advisable to do serious damage to the generator itself.

However, removing power supplies really comes into its own when speed of action is necessary. For example, all petrol stations have a little box on the wall marked "petrol pumps switch off here". This enables the fire brigade to turn off power to the pumps in the event of a fire or spillage. It also means that smashing this box, or cutting the cables, disables all equipment in the station forecourt - this is much faster and easier than trying to damage each pump or cut every pipe.

The only precaution must be to ensure your safety. Any source of energy is capable of imparting energy to you when you damage it - that can be fatal. To solve this problem there are simple steps you can take.

Electrical supplies:

Electrical cables should be isolated at the fuse box before cutting. If this is not possible, use tools with a long insulated handle - such as an axe. If in doubt you need to connect a thick copper wire - preferable coated in plastic - to the tool you are using, and then connect the other end to a large metal object embedded in the ground (such as a fence post) ot the earth plug of a wall socket. This will make the electricity earth to the ground via the wire rather than you. As a precaution, you should also wear thick rubber gloves - for example the type you use for washing up.

Where voltages higher than 415 volts are involved, no amount of earthing will ensure your safety - splashes of molten metal from the arc generated when the cables are cut can also insure you. For this reason you should consider other measure such as burning through the cable with an incendiary compound (see combustion section).

Batteries:

The batteries on conventional cars or lorries are relatively safe. The main danger comes from the acid they contain. The risk with these batteries is when they are on charge because they give off highly explosive hydrogen gas. Cutting one cable at a time, and then removing the battery is quite a straightforward process, but a spark near an open cell could initiate a fire.

Large battery arrays, such as those found on electric milk-floats and other electric vehicles, present a danger because the sheer amount of electrical current they are able to generate. If you short the cables you will get a small explosion as the current melts and fuses the metal in the cables. In extreme circumstances, it may also cause other parts of the electrical installation to short our - perhaps explosively if electrical capacitors are involved - and catch fire. Again, the basic instruction is disconnect one terminal or cut only one stand of the cable at a time. If the cable is multi-core - that is there is more than one stand of wire within it, strip off some ot the electrical insulation with a Stanley knife and cut one strand of wire at a time.

Again, where large battery arrays are involved with voltages greater than 24 volts, it is a good idea to earth the tool you are using if the only option is to cut rather than disconnect cables.

Fuels:

Most fuels are volatile - that is they burn readily with only minor ignition sources such as bright lights, heat or sparks. Petrol, gases and some solvents (such as acetone) fall into this category. Other fules such as paraffin or diesel are more difficult to ignite.

There are three tactics with fuels - spiking, disconnection or removal.
* Spiking involves the addition of substances to make the fuel burn under extreme conditions. Adding sugar or syrup to fuel produces large amounts of carbon which block the cylinders and valves of engines. On the other hand adding a litre or two of acetone to the fuel tank of a car, if it doesn't dissolve the pipes or the carburettor float first, causes the cylinder temperatures to rise to the point where the pistons or cylinder valves melt and fuse;
* Disconnection - basically means that you cut the fuel line. This in itself can cause great problems because by cutting the line the fuel escapes to cause pollution, or it covers you. There are a number of alternatives. You could close off valves in the fuel lines and then superglue them shut (it's generally not a good idea to solder or weld a fuel line!). The other option, which applies to metal fuel lines, is to crimp them shut using pliers. It is possible to use a hammer (sometimes the blunt end of a chisel or screwdriver proves an effective tool to use) to flatten the fuel line at two points, but this may cause th contents to ignite.If you crimp the fuel line in two places, and then cut the line in between the two, the fuel should not escape;
* Removal - quite simple, just take the stuff away.

Drive shafts/PTOs:

By the very fact that they carry large amounts of energy (the technical term is torque), drive shafts and PTOs are constructed of very hard and tough materials. This makes them very difficult things to cut, bend, or generally damage. However, almost all drive shafts rely on bearings and rotating joints to keep them turning efficiently. You should therefore attack the joints and bearings rather than the shaft itself.

The simplest way to damage a bearing is to inject grinding powder, suspended in lubricating oil or grease, into the bearing. Over the course of a few hours this reworks the running surfaces and makes everything a liitle more loose. With universal joints, if you can bang out one of the spindles on which the joint pivots then you can disconnect the drive shaft.

The other option is to unbalance the drive shaft. As the shaft rotates very quickly, and the shaft is very heavy, it must be in perfect balance along the axis of rotation. Any deviation causes the drive shaft to vibrate. If you add weight to just one side of the drive shaft - by strapping a weight around one side of it - the vibration could damage the bearings and joints before the operator notices. On larger shafts there are actually small weights which screw in and out of the shaft to vary the balance. Screwing the weights fully in on one side, and fully out on the other, will perform the same function as strapping a weight to the shaft. It also helps if you superglue the bolts too.

Alternatively - and this works very well with the propeller shafts of poats - just connect a length of steel cable to the shaft, and wrap it around the shaft. With luck, especially in enclosed spaces, the cable will snarl up and unbalance the shaft. However, you should always make sure that the rotating cable will not injure someone - a cable rotating at speed can be lethal.

Finally, with the PTOs of tractors or construction plant, if the drive shaft is not connected, just try and jam up the connection socket. The best way to do this is to melt solder onto the surfaces of the socket using a blowtorch - but don't forget to clean the metal surfaces of grease and rust using petrol or solvent, and then burning the residue off with the blowtorch, before you start, or the solder won't stick.

2.3. Power conduits

After power has been produced from the source, it must be moved around to where the work needs doing. There are a number of ways this can happen...
* Electrical power is moved along cables, through a series of switches, fuses and control instrumentation;
* Where pressurised fluids or gases are used, pipes and valves regulate the flow of fluid to its destination;
* Where kinetic energy is involved, gear, shafts and tension cables (steel cables, rubber/canvas drive belts or rope) transmit the energy;
* Especially where telecommunications equipment is concerned, the information can be carried as light within fibre optic cables, or as a radio wave within coaxial cables.

Essentially, what we are trying to do here is severe the flow of energy along the conduit. With electrical, communications or fluid cables this is simple - just cut it. But you should beware when cutting fluid cables in case the fluid or gas in the pipe is still under pressure. Again with electrical cables, as outlined above in relation to electrical sources, you should make sure that the cable is not live before you cut it, or take appropriate steps to protect yourself when cutting.

The problem here is that cables and pipes are relatively easy things to replace, relatively quickly. They are also relatively cheap. What we must do, in order to create the greatest expense and delay, is to damage or remove those parts of the system which control the flow of energy through the conduit:
* With electrical cables, switches, fuses, instrumentation and electromechanical relays all act to channel the flow of energy. By damaging these items you can disable a piece of equipment while repairs are made. With very specialised equipment, spares will not be readily available either. The key items to hit are relays, switches, and most importantly gauges, computers or programmable logic controllers (PLCs) and instrument panels;
* With hydraulic systems, the pipes are nearly always reinforced with hardened steel, making them very difficult to cut without very large and expensive bolt-cutters. The simple method is to drill the pipe, or even better, smash the valves which control the flow of the fluid. On basic mechanically controlled systems the valves are controlled by levers, so you should just rip off the levers, and perhaps smash the valve housing. On electromechanical systems electrically powered relays operate the valves. These are quite easy to disable because you can rip out the electrical cables, but more importantly, you should try and remove the solenoid (the electrical coil and magnet) mounted on top of the valve (easily identified as the electrical cable is plugged/connected into it);
* With pneumatic systems, the pipes are not normally reinforced, but the system is controlled by the same type of valves as hydraulic systems, so the same rules apply;
* With telecommunications systems, just cut the coaxial or fibre-optic cables, but you should try to access the transmitter units and smash them, or rip off any visible transmitter antennae. Alternatively, with coaxial cables, just fire a few dozen staples into the cable. The short circuit may damage the output transistors of the transmitter;
* Kinetic/mechanical systems are more difficult. Drive shafts, as explained above, are difficult to damage, but they are susceptible if they have exposed bearings or rotating joints. The best place to damage any mechanical system is at the gearbox - just fill it with sand, or better still, with grinding powder. If the gearbox does not contain any kind of lubricating fluid, fill it with epoxy potting compound, effectively sealing the moving parts in a block of hard plastic. Drive belts can be a problem. Smaller ones are easily cut as they are generally rubber with a canvas reinforcement. Larger ones, and things like conveyor belts, have steel reinforcement and so tin snips, side cutters or bolt-cutters will be required. Hacksaws will work, but it can be slow going. With drive cables, such as those on cranes, the cable is normally made of tensile steel which is difficult to cut without heavy duty side cutters or bolt-cutters. Hacksawing can take a long time.

It must be stressed that the simplest and most direct method is to damage the control systems. Even on hydraulic systems, where the system relies on a pump, it is still more effective to take out the control systems because the pumps are so solidly made.

2.4. Power sinks

When the power has been moved to where the work takes place, it can be used. Energy can be expended in many ways - from the hook at the end of the winch cable that lifts the load, to the computer at the end of the mains cable. For this reason, there is no general approach to damaging the appliance to which power is supplied. In general it is possible to say this...
* All electrical equipment should be damaged by hammering chisels/screwdrivers into it, or if this is difficult pour acid or salted water inside it;
* All mechanical equipment should be fouled up using wire, dismantled using tools, filled with sand or grinding powder, or just filled up with quick setting epoxy potting compound;
* All hydraulic/pneumatic appliances should have holes drilled in the cylinders.

But when considering the above options, you should consider the time factors involved. Sometimes effectively taking out the power conduit or source will be as effective, but more importantly quicker, than trying to damage every part of the system that utilises the energy supplied to the system.

2.5. Regulation

The regulation of energy was noted above in relation to energy conduits. Without control systems, machines will not function. For example, why spend half an hour trying to get into the locked engine compartment of an earth mover when you can just smash through or remove the window of the cab, and smash, damage or remove all the controls levers, switches and instrumentation?

When taking on control and instrumentation panels there are a few general tips:
* Any accessible electrical cables should be cut or ripped out. If you have a number of cables bound together or fixed in a loom, the simplest thing is to loop the mass of cables around a screwdriver or crowbar, and then twist around and around. As the cables twist and tighten on the bar, the tension will snap or rip them from their fixings;
* Any gauges, displays or meters should be smashed. The best way to do this is to take a long, thin (about 3-4mm diameter), blunt screwdriver, and hammer it through the face of the dial. If it goes through easily, try again - unless you encounter resistance as you hammer it through you are not doing any damage;
* Computers and PLCs should, if possible, be removed and disposed of in the nearest canal or ditch. If this is not possible you should take the same approach as outlined for gauges and meters. If the construction does not allow you to hammer in the screwdriver, then use the wedge end of a crowbar and hammer it through using a lump hammer (if available);
* Any key locks or key switches should be superglued;
* Conventional switches or levers should have the arms broken off. You can do this with a hammer. Sometimes the levers and knobs are fixed in place by small screws in the handle - if this is the case just loosen the screw, pull off the handle, and get rid of it off the site. This then leaves the spindle which the knob or lever was fixed to - this is best broken off using a hammer and chisel. For push buttons there is only one simple solution - either hammer the button through the face of the control panel, or superglue it in place.

However, sometimes there is just not the time to do all of the above. In these cases the only (ultimative) solution is to douse the control panel in petrol or diesel and torch it. This unfortunately attracts a lot of attention, and so you may wish to use some sort of time-delay incendiary device to do this.

2.6. Lubrication

Finally, many mechanical systems require careful lubrication to keep friction and wear to a minimum. Many gearboxes, engines and drive shafts contain spindles, cogs and bearings which must be lubricated to keep friction to a minimum, and remove excess heat. There are two basic methods for working on lubricating systems:
* Drain it: Drain the lubricating oil into a container (unless you are certain the oil will not cause pollution). Of course the operator will notice this, or the machine will indicate a low oil pressure, so this can only really work on a machine which is already running (in which case beware because the oil will be hot and under pressure), or a machine which you are sure you will be able to start up. If you cannot find or are unable to remove the plug in the oil sump, the simplest alternative is to drill a small hole through the sump using a hand or power drill;
* Spike it: If you have access to the sump filler on the engine, gearbox, or the lubricating nipple on the bearing, you can inject a mixture of oil and grinding powder into the machine. Grinding powder is expensive, but especially on bearings, it is the only option because only a very fine powder can be injected into the necessary space. However, on engines and gearboxes a cheaper option is sand.

3. ENGINE BASED SYSTEMS

3.1. The internal combustion engine

The internal combustion engine is the main source of electrical and mechanical power for most mobile equipment, and for a large proportion of all construction plant. An understanding of how engines work, and how to disable them, is therefore a key part of good sabbing technique.

By and large engines are either run on diesel or petrol - other fuels such as gas or methanol are available, but these tend to be used rarely, and so you are unlikely to come across them in great numbers.

3.2. Petrol engines

Today, many cars have separate electrically powered fans. Also the distributor and coil system, which controls the firing of the engine, is being slowly replaced by computer controlled units.

At its simplest the engine works as follows:
* To start the engine, power from the battery turns over the starter motor - this automatically engages with the flywheel. When the engine starts, the motor disengages;
* Fuel from the fuel tank is pumped to the carburettor. Here a nozzle produces a fine mist of petrol to allow it to mix thoroughly with air drawn in through the air filter;
* Taking just one cylinder - as the cylinder moves down a valve in the cylinder head opens and the air/fuel mixture is drawn in. At the bottom of the stroke the valve closes;
* As the piston retunrns back up the cylinder the ait/fuel mixture is compressed. At the point of maximum compression when the piston is at the top of its stroke the spark plugs and the air/fuel mixture explodes. The pressure increase caused by the hot gases forces the piston back down the cylinder;
* When the piston reaches the bottom of the cylinder, another valve opens and the exhaust gases are forced out of the cylinder when the piston travels back up the cylinder again - the cycle is then repeated all over gain;
* The four cylinders (or more - large earth movers can have 16-24 cylinders) and pistons are arranged so that they all fire at regular intervals. The power produced is then transferred by the camshaft to rotate the flywheel and drive the clutch/gearbox and drive shaft;
* Electrical power is generated by the alternator, which is turned by the rotation of the engine (it is directly coupled by a drive belt to the crankshaft);
* The valves are controlled by a camshaft which activates the valves at specific moments. The camshaft is kept in synchronisation by timing chains or teethed belts which are connected to the camshaft;
* The engine is kept cool by water which is circulated around channels within the engine/cylinder block. The water is forced around the system by a pump connected directly to the crankshaft;
The moving parts of the crankshaft/piston system are kept cooled and lubricated by oil which is stored in the sump. The oil is also pumped around the engine/cylinder block by a pump.

3.3. Diesel engines

The main difference with diesel engines is that they have no sparking system. Injectors force the fuel/air mixture into the cylinder. The higher levels of compression used in cylinder then force the mixture to explode - it is the use of higher compression which makes the combustion process more efficient in diesel engines. Apart from this there is little difference between the two engine types.

Another key difference is the use of fuel pumps on petrol engines, and the suction of fuel by the injectors in diesels. This means that if a diesel engine runs out of fuel, the fuel system must be bled to remove the air before it will properly function again (this is not necessary on a petrol engine).

3.4. Gas engines

Gas engines are becoming increasingly popular as a more efficient and less polluting alternative to the use of petrol and diesel. They run on either butane/propane, or liquified petroleum gas (LPG).

Gas engines are broadly similar to diesels in that they directly inject fuel and air rather than mixing them in the carburettor - but unlike diesel they still use spark ignition.

Gas engines present the same general problems in terms of sabbing, but the main thing to be aware of is that the fuel system uses highly flammable gases under pressure - therefore it is not a good idea to cut any fuel lines or damage the injection system - unless you want to this deliberately in order to torch the machine. Any spark following a release of gas, especially if you are still near the machine, could be fatal.

3.5. Basic sabotage of engine systems

When considering how best to damage an engine, most public libraries provide you with ample help. The numerous range of DIY car mantainance manuals, on everything from scooters to small vans, give you graphic descriptions of what certain parts look like, and how to conduct maintenance on them. I advice you to study this resource closely. You might also find it useful to enrol on a car maintenance workshop/evening class at your local technical college.

Coming back to our earlier principles, there are four basic fetaures of the engine to consider when deciding how best to disable it...

Energy source - fuel system
Energy conduit/regulator - fuel injection/ignition system
Energy conduit/lubrication - clutch/gear system
Energy source/sink - electrical system

Fuel system:

As noted earlier, cutting the fuel lines to an engine is quick and easy, but can also be easily repaired. It is also a potential source of pollution of the environment if the fuel contaminates soil, or enters storm drains. It can also spill all over you.

There are a few simple ways to disable the fuel system of an engine...
* Cut the fuel line at the tank (but this is easily fixed);
* Fill the tank with foreign material to block the system - oil or sand are the most usual substances to hand. Basically you keep loading the stuff into the tank until it's full. This is actually quite problematic because the tank must be removed and cleaned;
* Put substances into the tank to affect the performance of the fuel - basically sugar or syrup cause an overload of carbon which clogs the motor, and high energy hydrocarbon based liquids such as acetone or hydrazine make the fuel burn so hot it damages the negine. Both these options can be expensive to fix;
* Smash the fuel pump (petrol engines, and diesels with pumps only) - relatively simple to fix in a day or two, and costs a little more than just cutting the fuel line.

This option is less messy in terms of fuel spilling everywhere, but holds the risk of starting a fire, especially if the engine is hot.

On a petrol engine, remove the air filter (if there is one) to gain access to the carburettor. Then, using a clod chisel, hammer the carburettor. Carburettors are normally made of cast aluminium, and so it won't stand up to this treatment. To be one the safe side, it is better if you cut the fuel line first, and douse the whole engine/carburettor with water to prevent any sparks igniting the fuel.

On diesels, again take your hammer and chisel, and break off the injector, then stove in the ends of the injectors where they enter the cylinder block. Injectors are expensive to replace, but stoving in the thread makes things even harder.

The other option for petrol systems is to rip out the carburettor cap and leads. Also, after removing the cap, hammer the rotor arm and contacts to create the maximum possible damage.

On newer petrol engines, where ignition and fuel injection is computer controlled, trace the wires from the spark plugs back to the box or unit containing the timing system. Then use the standard approach for electrical appliances - hammer a blunt screwdriver through the unit once or twice. This is an expensive thing to repair.

Finally, on petrol systems and diesel systems (although it's harder on diesels because the injectors have to be replaced with a torque wrench to the right tension), take out the spark plug or injector, and drop one or tow bearings into one cylinder. Replace the plug/injector, and make everything as if no one had ever been there. Then, when the engine is switched on, in just a few minutes the piston and cylinder head are ruined - this is expensive to cure.

Clutch/gear/differential:

The power train - that is the crankshaft, clutch, gear and differential system which transfers power from the pistons to the wheels - is vulnerable only in two respects.

Firstly, the engine sump, the gearbox and the differential (if the vehicle has one) are all vulnerable to abrasives in their lubricating oil. Further details on how abrasives can be used are given in volume 1.There is little problem getting abrasives into the sump - the oil filler provides a direct route. Getting abrasives into the gearbox is tricky because of getting access to the filler nozzle. You also have the same problem with the differential (the differential is the bevel on the back axle of most heavy lorries/construction plant which transfers the motion of the drive shaft through 90o to turn the wheels).

The clutch has exactly the opposite problem - it should be kept dry. If you can release the clutch housing, and spray in a mixture of grease and sand, it does immense damage to the clutch plates.

The electrical system:

The electrical system essentially consists of the battery, the altenator, the starter motor, the injector heaters (disel only), the distributor cap and sparking coil (petrol only). Some petrol engines, especially older stationary engines, do not have altenators - instead they have magnetos (like dynamos on bicycles) which are directly connected to the crankshaft.

When considering the electrical system you have three prime targets...
* The battery;
* The alternator;
* The starter motor;
* Cables and fuses.

The battery can easily be removed - that is a straightforward task of removing each terminal connector and then loosening the retaining straps/bolts.

The altenator and the starter motor present different probelms - mainly how to damage a well constructed and enclosed electrical device. If possible try and find an opening in the alternator/starter motor housing. What you are looking for are bundles of copper wire wound on metal formers. The simplest way to damage the wires is to use a sharp chisel or screwdriver to hammer and cut/split individual wires. If this is difficult, just try and drill your way through the casing into the coils.

Another option is to open up a hole in the casing, perhaps with a drill, insert some sort of small funnel, and then pour acid in to fill up the casing - the battery is a good source of concentrated sulphuric acid, but ferric chloride will do just as well.

Finally, for good measure, always cut or rip out any electrical cables. This can be easily fixed, at much less cost than replacing the alternator and starter motor, but it's good for annoyance value. Also, if there is not time to sort out the electrics properly, ripping out the wiring is very quick. Also keep an eye out for any fuse boxes - a quick swipe with a hammer or the round end of a crowbar will smash the fuses and more importantly the fuse holders.

5. PNEUMATICS

5.1. Pneumatic systems

Pneumatic systems use pressurised air to make things move (for example, pistons), to hold things up (for example, car tyres), or ot move things (for example, air lines inside hopper feeder tubes).

Dealing with pneumatic systems poses some dangers: If you puncture the balloon tyres on an earth mover they may rip open and injure you. If you puncture a high pressure air line, small particles of flying dust or metal may damage your eyes.

Pneumatic systems are used mainly in the following situations:
* Mechanical systems in industry, mainly using piston/cylinders to move rods or levers;
* On automotive equipment air brakes are widely used where large amounts of energy need to be used quickly (e.g. braking systems for lorries and trains);
* Many hoppers and material storage systems use streams of air to move dust or small particles.

Again, taking out earlier analysis, in pneumatic systems there are sources of energy, methods for transporting that energy, and then methods for expending that energy. Compressors take atmospheric air and squash it - creating air at high pressure. Strong pipes then carry this high pressure air to where it is needed. This air can be used in a number of ways.

5.2. Compressors

A compressor is basically a large pump, operating at high speed. It takes air of volume X, and reduces that volume by factor Y, so increasing the pressure proportionately. This process expends a lot of energy, and also creates a lot of heat (you may have found when pumping up a bike tyre that the end of the pump gets hot).

In fixed locations compressors are normally electrically powered. On mobile equipment they are engine driven. This provides "two bites of the cherry" in terms of sabotage. You either take on the energy source - be it the engine or the electric motor, or you take on the compressor itself.

The first obvious flaw in the compressors design is the air intake - this is normally covered with some form of fabric filter or gauze. By removing this cover you can pour fine powder or small abrasive particles into the air intake. On smaller compressors, pouring resin/glue into the intake will have a similarly damaging effect. But beware, the effect, especially in large compressors, may be rapid and severe. If possible rig up some system to remotely pour in the material, or throw it in from a safe distance.

Next, there are the control systems of the compressor itself. Compressors working from engines are normally very simply affairs, but large industrial compressors are very complicated machines, with complex control mechanisms. If time is short, damaging the control mechanisms is the easiest option. This is best done with the compressor not working - most large compressors are fitted with emergency stop buttons, and simply hitting this will shut down the system. You then can work on the control boards, BUT BEWARE, stopping the compressor does not isolate power from the electrical systems!

Another important part of large compressors is lubrication - in some situations this may also act as a coolant. Where there is no other option, draining the lubricant or coolant will normally cause the shutdown of the compressor - either because it seizes up or because the control systems detect the change and cause automatic shutdown.

Finally, you may be tempted to damage the main airline leaving the compressor. If the compressor is operating this could be lethal. If you do this with the compressor off, it may injure someone when the system starts. The pressures involved may be too risky. The safer option is to take the air lines further down the system on the smaller bore pipes (the smaller the pipe... the less the capacity for air flow... the safer it is cut):

One last thing - do not get a compressor confused with a chiller. They can look similar, but the main way to tell them apart is that the main movement of air is into a compressor, but out of a chiller. Also, the air leaving a chiller is warm, and there is normally a lot of water swilling around.

5.3. Air lines

Air lines are very simple things. They are pipes that carry air under pressure from the compressor to where it is needed. But air lines are very dangerous. If you cut a long flexible (plastic or rubber) tube, it will begin whipping around, and could injure anyone stood nearby. Likewise, any metal air line with a diameter of more than 10mm could contain a lot of energy - cutting it might cause shrapnel to hit you, and the hiss of air from the split will act like a steam whistle, which could damage your hearing.

In general, if an air line is made of steel, it is because it is meant to carry a lot of pressure - so you might conside rnot cutting it. Flexible or plastic lines carry lower pressures, and are easier to cut.

A safe way to damage larger air lines, in a way which is difficult to find, is to hand drill them with a small - 1 or 2mm - drill. If you do this in enough places, the air leakage will not be dangerous, but the leakage will be significant enough to affect the system.

5.4. Cylinders and motors

One of the main uses for compressed air in industry is to make things move - from printing machines to advanced robotic assembly systems. The main component in these systems is the pneumatic cylinder.

Cylinders work in reverse to an average bike pump. Air is injected at one end or the other. This moves the piston inside the cylinder, and the rod connected to it. The power with which this takes place is proportional to the diameter of the piston - the greater the more power.

Unlike hydraulic systems, where fluid is conserved, in pneumatic systems the compressed air is always released. Whereas a hydraulic ram needs to be pushed in both directions, the pressure in the live side of the cylinder pushes against atmospheric pressure (which is much lower), and the piston moves. To make the piston go back and forth it is therefore necessary to have two-way valves which allow the air to flow out of the cylinder, but switch to allow high pressure air in when the piston needs to go back. A simple way to disable the cylinder is to damage or remove this valve. In cylinders where fast movement is needed the valve will be located on the cylinder, but otherwise you will have to trace the pipes back to where the valve is located. Sometimes the two-way valve is incorporated into the mechanical or electromechanical switch which controls the cylinder - in which case you can do even more damage.

There is a very simple way to disable cylinders - cut the pipes leading to them. This of course is easily fixed. If you have more time there are three other options:
* On many cylinders there is a large nut on the front of the cylinder which the rod emerges through. If you undo this not, the seal and bush which supports the rod come apart;
* If time permits, there are four or more tie-bars which hold the two ends of the cylinder together. If you undo the nuts/screws on one end of the cylinder falls apart;
* A good, quick, and fairly expensive option is to drill through the wall of the cylinder - but make sure there's no air in the cylinder first!

Air motors look similar to small electric motors - except they run on compressed air. They are very well built, and so are difficult to damage. The simplest way to deal with them is to inject mastic or resin into the air input. If you really want to make a mess, inject as much glue as possible, then reconnect the air line and turn it on for a few seconds.

5.5. Tyres and balloons

Another example of systems are inflated vehicle tyres. These fall into two types:
* Tyres are fitted to mainly road vehicles, and either have inner-tubes which hold the air, or are designs to hold the air in on their own (tube-less tyres). The rubber tyres are also strengthened by steel belts;
* Balloon tyres are used primarily on off-road vehicles and construction plant. They have a large surface area to spread the load across the ground - this means that heavy construction vehicles can move across soft unmade ground. Most balloon tyres do not have inner-tubes. Balloon tyres are problematic to deal with - mainly because of the thickness of the rubber/belting and the volume of air they contain.

The most straightforward way to damage balloons is to use a small drill and drill through the wall (but beware because the vehicle will tip as the tyre deflates). There are two other options with normal tyres. You can drill through the tyres, but it is often simpler and quicker to cut off the valve of the inner tube with side cutters - but put a rag or something soft over the top of the valve before you cut in case it flies off as the air comes out.

5.6. Basic sabotage of pneumatic systems

How you tackle pneumatic systems will depend upon the accessibility of the parts of the system, and how much time you have.

If you have access to the compressor, the simplest option would be to stop the system using any emergency shutdown systems, and then disable the compressor. The only thing to beware of is that on electrical powered systems the power will still be live - although this can be solved by finding the junction box/isolator for the compressor and switching it off.

If the compressor is not accessible, then you have two options:
* You can damage the air distribution system. This involves either cutting the air lines (plastic lines are easily cut with side-cutters, metal ones can be sawn) or damaging the control valves. The obvious precaution here is do not cut large pipes while the system is active - drill them instead.
* You can damage the air cylinders/motors to stop the system working. Methods of doing this were given earlier.

Where no part of the system is accessible except the air intake - this is normally in factories - then you will have to load oil, or some form of powder, into the air intake. This will just clog the filter - so if you can puncture any accessible filters that will help enormously.

The quickest method to disable the entire system will be to take the power source away - either disable the engine driving the compressor (this is the setup of mobile systems) or isolate the electrical supply and burn the cables/control systems (this works on fixed systems).

4. MOTOR BASED SYSTEMS

4.1. Types of electric motors

Most electrically powered mechanical equipment contains some sort of electric motor. By damaging the electric motor, you disable the whole machine. In practice this can be easy to do since electric motors (with the exception of those designed to be used in extreme conditions) are delicate objects which must be kept cool, dry, lubricated, and free from dust.

There are a wide range of electric motors, in different shapes, sizes and constructions. You should also be aware that most generator systems use devices almost identical to electric motors in revese - by turning the motor manually you create electricity. Therefore this section could be equally applied to generator systems.

4.2. DC, AC and 3-phase motors

Motors come in different physical sizes, but they are also run on different electrical supplies. Some run on single phase alternating current (AC) supplies like you have in your home. Others have three phase supplies, equivalent to three domestic supplies with the alternating currents out of phase, to give the motor more power (these are generally used in industrial plants). Finally, some motors use direct current supplies - this is mainly when the motor draws its power from batteries, solar cells, or generators which power through a bank of batteries (most vehicles use this system).

All motors work on electromagnetism, that is, the action of the electricity creates a magnetic force within the motor which turns the shaft. AC and DC systems operate this system rather differently, but the principle is essentially the same.

4.3. Generators

As noted above, a similar device to a motor used in reverse can create electricity. The energy expended by turning the shaft creates electrical energy which flows out of the device.

When sabotaging generators the considerations are essentially the same, but you must always consider the practicality of your actions (as noted earlier in this volume). By sabotaging a generator you deny equipment electrical power - but a generator is easily replaced. On a work/cost/benefit analysis it may be a better option to actually sabotage the equipment that the generator powers rather than just doing the generator itself. However, in certain situations (such as building sites) taking out the generator can be much faster than doing every piece of machinery.

4.4. Basic sabotage of electric motors

There are various options for disabling electric motors. Essentially it is a matter of cutting the supply of energy to the system, damaging the moving parts of the system, damaging the electrical circuits or attacking the bearings/workings using abrasives or glue.

Electrical supply:

Cutting the supply to an electric motor can be done in a few seconds - taking all the normal precautions when cutting high voltage cables. The only problem here is that the cables can be very quickly reconnected by even amateur electricians. In practice when disconnecting the supply you have to do little more.

Many electrical motors do not simply have the power cable entering the motor - often it is necessary to have additional electrical components to modify the electric current, or proven the emission of electrical noise into the power system. On larger electrical motors the electrical components needed to do this are large, and are often mounted within a metal enclosure on the side of the motor housing. Smaller motors may actually have the components just wired onto the outside.

A typical layout for the enclosure: The cover plate is held by screws or bolts - held in place by screws or bolts - these can either be removed, or if they are fixed (or riveted) drilled out. Beneath the plate you will find a few electrical components (normally cylindrical or disc like, perhaps some fuses, and a number of terminals where the wires from the mains cable and the motor are connected.

You now have three options...
* Forget removing the cover, just smash the entire enclosure off the side of the motor - effective but noisy;
* Cut the wires inside the box, and if possible remove the electrical components and dispose of elsewhere;
* More infuriating to your target, carefully remove the cover plate, remove the components/cut wires, then replace the cover plate and fix with superglue and/or threadlock on the screws.

Taking this approach creates more difficulty. It is highly likely that the operator will have to employ professional motor servicing people to fix the damage - which might take a day or two.

Moving parts:

The power from an electrical motor is used for something - the simplest option if easy access to the coupling between the shaft and the drive mechanism is exposed it to damage or disconnect it. Drive shafts are hard things to break, so this will normally entail unscrewing things or taking bolts out.

Alternatively, you could weld or solder up the shaft where it leaves the motor. If there is no surge protection or fuses in the system (possible on old equipment) this will burn out the motor when it is turned on.

Another option is to damage the air cooling fan. Electrical motors produce large quantities of heat as they run. On large motors this heat cannot be dissipated quickly enough through the metal body of the motor, and so air is blown through the motor housing by a fan connected to the shaft.

There are two simple options to make the motor overheat:
* Remove the fan - but replace the motor housing so no one notices. Eventually the motor may overheat and burn out, but this is dependent upon the load put on it;
* The best option for a motor that is actually running is to pour fine dry sand, or some sort of powder, into the fan, or the air inlet (depending on where the air enters the housing). This will be sucked through the motor and will either gunge up, melt or abrade the internal workings of the motor until it either burns out, falls apart, or catches fire.

Electrical circuits:

The flaw in any motor is the integrity of the hundreds of feet of copper cable that are wound in coils within th emotor. If you can break or cut some of these cables the whole motor will have to be replaced - which could take some time.

There are four main ways of doing this:
* If the cables are exposed enough, cut them with side cutters or a small hacksaw blade (copper is soft and cuts easily using a hacksaw blade on its own - not actually set in its frame holder);
* If it is difficult to get to the cables, or they are some distance in, use a screwdriver or chisel to part the coils;
* Pour acid over the coils or inside the motor housing - do not even do this when the motor is running or you'll splash acid everywhere;
* Tip some form of home-made incendiary compound into the motor housing and set it off (this makes the biggest mess of all).

There is another option for breaking the electrical circuits. On some motors power must be transferred to th ecoils of wire which rotate on the shaft. To do this there are a set of electrical contacts (called brushes) and a metal contact surface called the commutator. You should be able to remove the brushes fairly easily (often they just screw in on the end of springs) and get rid of them. Better still, if you can see the commutator (perhaps after removing the brushes) pour acid over it. The corrosion this causes can only be fixed by taking the motor apart.

Bearings:

Small motors do not have bearings - big ones have various types depending upon the amount of energy they put out. The easiest way to damage bearings is to pour abrasives such as sand or grinding powder into them. Sometimes the abrasive has to be suspended in grease to get it into the bearing.

Glue:

There are two options for gluing up the workings of a motor:
* On small motors, you can put epoxy on/around the shaft to stop it turning;
* Most effectively on large motors, pour epoxy potting compound into the motor housing and let it set.

Glue tends to be an expensive option for damaging motors, but it can be used to best effect where you want to damage something very specifically - the motor mechanism controlling part of a larger machine for example.

8. VEHICLES

8.1. Cars, lorries and construction plant

Tackling cars, lorries and mobile construction vehicles presents its own problems, which set them as a class apart from other hits. In general the important parts of the system are concealed behind rigid steel enclosures making them difficult to access. The control systems are normally inside a cab, locked behind doors and tough glass. Finally, and most importantly, the intrinsic value of these machines means that they are more likely to be alarmed so that sabotage becomes difficult or impossible.

Cars and vans are probably the most difficult to damage effectively - although it is often a simple matter to immobilise them in some way. These days not only does the vehicle have motion and vibration detectors, but even the bonnet and petrol cap are locked and alarmed.

Taking on vehicles therefore requires a lot of thought - at the beginning of any planning for the hit you may even decide to exclude cars and vans.

Heavy goods vehicles (HGVs) are a different matter. In many cases although the cab itself may be alarmed, the way the vehicle is built makes vulnerable parts easier to get hold of. In particular the fuel and electrical systems, and the engine/power train, can be easily reached by clambering underneath. Unlike cars, where cutting the brakes means that the car can't stop, with many HGV the airbrake system means that if the air isn't there you can get the brakes off - this makes them an obvious target.

Earth movers, JCBs and dumpers are more difficult. This is not only because they are more enclosed than HGVs, but the components are generally made to withstand greater damage. Unless you can get the body panels off your only options are to go for the accessible parts of the hydraulic system, the fuel tank filler pipe, the cab (if it is not alarmed) and the tyres/tracks.

8.2. General sabotage options

When first approaching a vehicle you need to consider three things...
* Is it likely to be alarmed?
* Are there enough accessible parts to effectively achieve the objective of the hit?
* Would my time be better spent on something nearby?

In general you should assume that any locked vehicle is alarmed - but if you have planned the hit to allow for activating the alarm without attracting attention then that's OK. HGVs present the most fruitful target when alarmed, but cars do not because the vibration sensors will detect and sharp banging. The simplest option with cars is to drill the tyres - this makes very little vibration, and they go down fairly slowly so that the rim of the wheel doesn't land with a jolt.

The issue of accessible parts is also important. If you are able to sugar the fuel, irrespective of anything else, you can consider the job done. But to be sure you really need to do some work on other parts of the vehicle. The hydraulics is the obvious choice on earth movers, and the electrical/air systems are the obvious choice on HGVs. With cars, if you are very gentle, you may be able to get underneath and crush the fuel line closed, or reach up from underneath into the engine cavity and cut some wires.

Finally, if you have a choice between a car, and an HGV next to it, it is obvious which you do first - the HGV has more accessible parts. Likewise, if you had a pound full of cars which are covered in alarms, but the security gate had a number of strong locks on it, you would glue up the locks on the security gate.

Whatever tactic you apply, you should still use the energy flow analysis of the system to target the parts of the vehicle it would be most effective to sabotage.

8.3. Engine and fuel systems

The fuel tank on most cars is located at the rear, underneath the boot. A metal pipe then runs from the tank, underneath the chassis to the fuel pump mounted on the engine block. Draining or cutting this system willl deprive the engine of fuel. If you wished to take the drastic action of setting fire to the car, you could also cut/drill this system to provide the fuel to start the fire. If you ever need to syphon fuel from a vehicle, cutting the fuel pipe or making a hole in the tank is also quicker and safer than trying to chisel off a locked petrol cap. But beware - draining fuel tanks can cause a lot of pollution, unless you catch the fuel in a can or tray.

These same rules apply to HGVs - the only thing is that diesel is less volatile, and consequently harder to set fire to. The easiest way is to pile some paper and wood in a heap, put diesel on the paper, and then set fire to the dry pieces of paper.

Engines are difficult to get at because they are locked under bonnets or in the case of the HGV, you often hav eto hinge open the whole cab. The options are therefore limited. You could drain the oil by taking out the sump plug, but this will show up when the engine is started, and draining the oil, especially from HGVs, can cause a lot of pollution.

If you can get the bonnet open, you should first go for the spark plugs, or on diesel engines, the injectors. If you want to make a really good job, find the oil filler cap, or the dip stick hole, and try getting some abrasive material into the engine (see the abrasives section of volume 1). Grinding/polishing powder is best (because it's hard), but sand will do as a substitute.

8.4. Brakes and hydraulic systems

You should never cut fluid brake systems on cars or vans. This is because all power to the brakes will be lost. Air brake systems on HGVs can be cut - but carefully so that you don't injure yourself - because the brakes are held off by air pressure, and cutting the pipes means the brakes won't come off.

Hydraulic systems are a problem, partly because of the dangers of the equipment moving/collapsing. There is also the matter of pollution arising fom the leaking hydraulic fluid.

Choosing which pipes to cut is a matter of what your tooling capability is. If you have good bolt cutters then hoses up to 1" diameter, and pipes up to 0.5" should present little problem. Where bigger pipes are involved, you should consider drilling them with a small (2mm) drill bit. If the parts are accessible, it is more effective to go for the manifolds and valves - they are more expensive and take longer to replace. To really damage the hydraulic rams you need a power drill and a specially hardened drill bit suitable for cutting hardened steel.

8.5. Electrical systems

If the vehicle is switched off, then apart from the leads coming from the battery to the solenoid, and the lighting system, the wires should have no power running through them. Even so, apart from the battery leads, cutting other cables will have little effect because any short circuit will involve low voltages, and the fuses should blow.

It can be difficult to identify specific parts of the electrical system, except for the simple things like the distributor cap/plug leads, and battery leads. In general it is often easier to just cut everything quickly. Also, rather then cutting a cable once, try to cut one or two inch sections from the cable - this means they have to be replaced rather then just joined back together.

9. SPECIALIST HITS

How to describe the sabotage of other non-standard systems is more difficult. You should be able to figure out what to do by using the energy flow analysis of the system, and copying some of the ideas applied to the standard systems described in the sections above.

In practice you may end up treating a complex machine - for example a roadstone coating plant, as a collection of discrete systems rather than as one entitiy.

9.1. Construction equipment

Most construction equipment can be tackled with the information already given in this volume, and volume 1. But on the construction sites you often find hybrid machines.

A key consideration of hitting something like a construction site is not only to consider the machines as systems - with energy and material flows - but also you should look at the whole site as a functioning entity material stockpiles are needed to make the whole thing function. Likewise, machines such as cement mixers can be as important as earth movers.

There are a number of things you can do on construction sites...
* In the initial stages, you should consider moving the survey stakes. Only move them a foot or so, and try to make the new position look convincingly real. That way, if construction goes ahead to your new plan, prefabricated elements of the development won't fit. If there is not a lot of time just rip up all the survey marks;
* Sand stockpiles are a good target. You could dig sugar or salt (salt is better) into the sand. This will make the cement/concrete weak. But for safety's sake, you should let the site operator know this after they have used the material. In any case, you might like to tell even if you didn't do it;
* On many sites, pumps often operate around the clock to keep deep excavations dry. You could sabotage the pumps. But there is a more effective option where there is a large body of water nearby - either a watercourse or a settling pond. Take out the outlet pipe from the water pump and stick it in the hole, and the inlet from the hole and stick it in the water. It can be sometimes quicker and easier to just swap the pipes around on the pump. Either way you pump the hole full of water;
* Scaffolding is a good target. Use a rope winch or block and tackle (see volume 1) to pull it over - if you are lucky you might take some of the work with you;
* A good target is the site office. You can either glue up the locks, go inside and improve the decor, or try to demolish/turn the office block over;
* Never forget of course the wide range of machinery available to work on. This may be kept in a secure compound, and if so, you should beware of alarm/security systems;
* Tower cranes are a risky target - if you're discovered there's nowhere to run. If something goes wrong then you are either stuck, dead or badly injured. Although you could disable the controls in the cab, or try and cut the power lines, you should never attempt to topple the crane unless you are absolutely sure you can do it, and it will land where it will not cause harm to anyone;
* Whatever you do, do not leave things in a state where they will be a danger to the workers on the site, or to the occupants of the building when/if it is completed.

9.2. Quarry equipment

Quarrying is probably one of the most damaging landuses in lowland meadows, and in hilly/mountainous areas. It is not only because of the effect of quarrying on habitats, but also the effect on water tables, and the land uses that follow such as waste disposal or watersports.

There are four key targets in the quarry works...
* The earth moving/excavation equipment;
* The pumps that keep the quarry dry - if you are certain that the site will fill with water quickly, or you can swap the pipes on the pumps, then you can drown all the equipment in one go;
* The sorting/grading and crushing equipment - essential for the processing of stone, and potentially easily damaged;
* The site office and weighbridge. Doing the site office causes annoyance. If you can damage the controls for the weighbridge then you really make operating difficult.

The only thing to beware of with quarries is making sure that you don't get trapped. Especially in deep quarries, if your exit is blocked, or if you fall into a pit with no escape, your only option is to wait for the owners to find you.

9.3. Farm machinery

There are a wide variety of farms. Some have only arable planting/harvesting equipment. Some concentrate on dairy products. Some intensively farm just one type of animal.

In general, it is the intensive farms which present the greatest offence to the environment. Not only is there the issue of animal welfare, but intensive farms can also present a serious polution hazard to the soil, to nearby watercourses, and often create local noise and smell nuisances.

When you take action against a farm, you must consider, first and foremost, what your attitude to animals is. Your actions may have implications for the welfare of animals - it may even cause their deaths. You must decide if you wish to uphold their right to life, or whether you believe that a short period of discomfort will effectively "end" their misery.

There are a number of targets which you should consider sabotaging...
* Farm machinery is often easy to sabotage because it is less enclosed;
* With things like livestock transport wagons, you have to decide whether you want to destroy or disable them - disabling is easy. Causing fires on farms is a bad idea because of the presence of large quantities of flammable materials such as straw, fuel or wooden buildings;
* Materials hoppers are a good target - these are often essential for the storage of grain, or of food for intensive animal units. Puncturing the tubes coming from the hopper leaks pressure from the system and prevents material flow. Likewise, jamming/gluing access covers and valves prevents their use;
* On many farms and barns the electrical systems are easily sabotaged. In many cases the electrical controls resemble those in your own home. Cutting the meter leads can be dangerous. You should attempt to remove the mains fuse, or isolate the fusebox, and then clip all the leads leading out of the fusebox. If you wear rubber gloves, you could also take a sledgehammer to the fusebox and meter;
* Many farms have pesticide/chemical stores - these can be glued up. Beware of any fertiliser bag that has a yellow diamond or the word oxidising agent on it. If you set fire to this stuff it is difficult to stop, it burns intensely hot, and will create a serious pollution incident if any substantial quantity catches fire.

A word of caution though. Many farms have live-in staff, and so security can be a problem. Another recent innovation are trip-wires and pressure pads - these are linked to flares or squibs and are meant to announce the presence of intruders. Although not all farms have them, they are becoming increasingly popular to prevent uninvited guests, thieves, or animal protesters. They are very difficult to spot in the dark, and if you have just spent twenty minutes quietly stalking up to a barn and you set a thunderflash off it can scare the hit out of you.

9.4. Pipelines and transmission lines

Pipelines and electricity transmission lines are extremely easy targets to take on, but can be immensely dangerous. If you are considering such things as high-pressure gas pipelines, or any electric cable carrying more than 415 volts, my tip to you is forget it! There are easier ways to die. But there are some targets you can consider.

Mains voltage power lines (that is, less than 500 volts) are difficult to cut - even with the standard household 240 volts you could conceivable kill yourself. In these situations you should consider burning through the cable - the simplest way to do this is to place a blow lamp on the cable or pipe, and then retire to a safe distance very quickly. You might risk chopping them with an axe, but if you cause a serious short the spatter of molten metal could cause burns.

Low voltage power lines (less than 50 volts) can be easily cut with cutters, provided that they have insulated handles, or you wear thick rubber gloves. Again, beware things like high current induction motors or welding equipment - these carry large amounts of current which could arc and burn you.

Pumps are an easy target. You can either go for the motor driving the pump, or you can go for the pipeline. There are two types of pump...
* Diaphragm pumps operate using an oscillating membrane and two one-way valves. They can often be identified by the regular pulsing and gushing of water along the pipes. If you can introduce some long hard objects, such as pieces of stick or wood, these can block the valves of th epump. Otherwise you should go for the engine/motor driving pump.
* Rotary pumps have a disk rotating at high speeds (the impeller) which continuously sucks/pushes water - so you don't get the same pulsing. The lack of valves makes them difficult to sabotage, so you should go for the engine/motor driving the pump.

With both types of pump, they operate by generating a low pressure on the sucking side, and creating a high pressure on the blowing side. If you puncture the pipes on the low pressure side you let air in and the pipeline looses suction. Likewise, if you puncture the high pressure side the pipeline leaks.

Coaxial cables carry radio waves, and are used on transmitter masts, computer networks, and some radio intercom systems. They can be easily cut with side cutters, or better still stapled with a staple gun (this shorts the cable and potentially could wreck the transmitter). Beware microwave transmitters - sometime these use waveguides just behind the dish which can be dangerous to your health if cut.

It is possible to cut high pressure pipes or high voltage cables using some sort of chemical incendiary mixture, but this is still very risky. You also have the problem that the chemical incendiaries could burn away without breaking the pipe/cable, but causing serious damage which may endanger someone. Also the chemical incendiary could start a fire in the area, ignite the contents of the pipeline, or if the pipeline holds high pressure the explosive breach could throw burning incendiary over a large area and start fires.

9.5. Commercial premises

Commercial premises present a challenge to the saboteur - but many rewards. As security technology increase, even the most innocent site office can have as much anti-intruder protection as your local bank. This is because what is inside offices - computers, fax machines, and increasingly data - is becoming more valuable and needs protecting.

Getting past security systems cannot be taught here - there is not enough room, and you must learn some highly technical electronic and computer skills. Sometimes it may be worth organising your hit to take place within 30 seconds to one minute, and then just smashing your way in triggering every security device on the premises. If you can guarantee that security personnel will not arrive for fiv or six minutes, then you can make a getaway.

There are also a number of targets to consider. As noted at the beginning of this section, you can treat something new as a set of systems, using the analysis described earlier in this volume. But commercial premises present some very specific pieces of equipment which you might like to know more about.

Forklifts:

In many commercial/industrial premises, you will find some sort of forklift truck for loading/unloading vehicles, or working within stores/high bay warehouses. Forklifts are either electrically powered using a battery pack, or they run on a gas engine, powered by a bottle of compressed gas mounted on the back of the machine.

The control panel is simple, and easily accessible. But getting to the electric motors and gearing mechanisms can be difficult. Although many forklifts use cable or chains for lifting, some use hydraulic system - in these cases the usual hydraulic systems rules apply.

Beware electric forklifts - if you short the battery pack you might have a small explosion because of the power the pack can generate. On most battery forklifts the pack has a connector which pills out of a socket and plugs into a battery charger. You have the choice of either turning the charger off, disconnecting the battery and sabbing the charger box, or disconnecting the pack from the socket it plugs into on the truck, and smashing this socket. Do not smash the plug connected to the battery pack because this would cause a short.

Refrigeration systems:

Another common thing to find in commercial premises is refrigeration systems - used as either actual cold stores/fridges, or used as cooling systems/air conditioning units. If you damage the refrigeration system it can be a very expensive job not only replacing the system, but also the goods which may go off when they warm up.

You must take care when taking on these systems because they contain flammable gases such as butane, highly irritating gases such as ammonia,or asphyxiating gases such as halon (CFCs). If you cut the pipes and release these gases, you will have to evacuate immediately. In practice it is safer to take on the electrical control systems and put them permanently out of action.

Modern refrigeration systems use electric motors which drive specially designed pump or screw compressors. By disabling the motor, or its power source, you disable the cooling system. The problem comes where the motor and pump form on sealed unit - in these instances you can only disable the power source.

Another thing to consider, espacially where machinery is involved, is the effect that damaging the gearing and bearing systems will have.

Gearings and bearings:

Gears are most easily damaged by breaking or denting the teeth on the cogs that make up the gear. Cast gears can be broken with a lump hammer. Prising open smaller gear sets with a crowbar will have an equally deleterious effect. Some gear systems are oil lubricated, or contained within some sort of sump - in these cases just put sand in the sump to act as an abrasive. Worm gears are particularly susceptible to having things jammed in them - if you use some mild steel rods (for example short nails), these work their way into the gears causing a jam.

Bearings are harder to damage, mainly because they are encased inside the machine. But there they are visible, you can damage them them using a hammer and cold chisel/centre punch, or by jamming steel nails into the bearing. If a bearing is lubricated with grease, try mixing 2 parts (by volume) of grinding/polishing powder to 3 parts lubricating grease, and then apply this to the bearing. If this goes unnoticed the bearings will slowly wear and begin to rattle in their races.

9.6. High security compounds

Entering high security compounds - such as those surrounding military bases, nuclear establishments or sensitive commercial premises - is a bit like putting your head in a lions mouth. You have to hope that it doesn't bite.

As noted with commercial premises, you could just rush the place head on, do your work within a minute, and then get away quickly. Sometimes that may be your only option, but there are alternatives.

A tactic within the anti-nuclear movement was to treat the high security compound itself as a target. Thus you regularly set alarms off, cut holes infences, or throw stones at security cameras. If this gets a regular occurrence, to the point where the staff don't immediately react, this may provide a time window where you can actually get in and do some real work.

9.7. Marine targets

Marine targets fall into roughly two types - things that float, and things that are fixed to the ground but have water around them. Floating things can be sunk - but this presents risks of pollution and danger to people on the floating object. Things that are fixed to the bottom are generally of interest because of what is on them.

Never sink anything while people are aboard it. If you want to sink something what you have to consider is how long the thing will take to sink - this is important as it means that you can guarantee that the object will sink within a certain amount of time. First you estimate the internal volume of the object - call this V, and measure it in cubic metres. If we assume that you are going to drill the hull of the object, then find the diameter of your drill bit - call this D and measure it in millimetres. Finally, work out how far below the waterline you are going to drill the hole(s) - call this H and measure it in metres. Finally, decide how many minutes you want the object to sink in, and call this M. The number of holes you will have to drill to sink the object in the required time is then calculated using the formula...

T - V / (0.009426 * D2 * H *M)

Taking on fixed targets depends a lot on their nature. Docks and quays present the obviuos advantage that things can be easily disposed of - into the water. Also, where you have a secure compound, access from the water can get around many problems such as fences and guards. But beware - some sites, such as military installations, have nets and alarms to stop swimmers/divers, and on occasions the security troops have used special stun grenades to disable swimmers attempting to access protected docksides.

In terms of everyday hits, waterborne access can add a new dimension to the planning of hits. For example, if you ever get cornered and there is a river next to the site, you can jump in, drop your tools to the bottom, and then float away downstream. Likewise, there are many sites - for example chemicals installations, that are built on waterways, and have minimal security along their water side because the water is assumed to be a barrier in itself.

One obvious safety point in relation to waterborne hits - it does help if you can swim. Likewise, if you are taking a boat out on the open water, make sure that you are skilled to handle it.

END OF VOLUME 2