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Earthquake delegation. Musafrabad capital of Kashmir.

GS | 03.01.2006 20:31 | Sheffield

We arrive in the capital of Kashmir at night. Our guide from the JKLF tells us that this city saw the highest concentration of earthquake deaths with a latest bodycount of over 40,000. One telling sign is that half our hotel (The Sangham) is leveled to the ground with a number of holes punched in the outside of the half that we are staying in. We are told it is safe as it has so far survived the earthquake and its aftershocks. The next morning we get to see the full extent of the devastation outside.

Our hotel.
Our hotel.

Trading in the rubble.
Trading in the rubble.

Where the shops used to be.
Where the shops used to be.

Clearing the remains of the town.
Clearing the remains of the town.

No machinery availible.
No machinery availible.

Nightime at one of the hundreds of refugee camps.
Nightime at one of the hundreds of refugee camps.


We are told that those who can afford it have left Musafrabad. The devastation in some areas is total while it is just visible in others. The quake seems to have been a lottery for the buildings and people of this city. Like all lotteries the outcome has been decided for many by how many tickets they could afford. Hillside private houses remain standing in some areas while whole tenement blocks have collapsed in others. In one case we are shown the remains of a luxury hotel where over 40 people (mostly Kashmiris) died.

Wherever the clearing of the rubble happens the police wait in vehicles nearby in case bodies or valuables are discovered. Labouring seems to be the main source of employment in the city at present. The workers methodically smash the floors and ceilings of the ruined buildings and then wheelbarrow the remains into piles for collection. There does not seem to be any heavy machinery available to help them in their task. Many shopkeepers have begun to trade from the ruins of their premises by piling the rubble into makeshift counters. Paraffin lamps, firelighters, blankets and winter clothes are among the most popular items for sale. At night people huddle round fires at the roadsides.

All around the city are refugee camps run by NGOs. It is estimated that over 200,000 will spend this winter under canvas in Musafrabad and its surrounding area alone. Unfortunately 80% of the tents are totally inadequate for the approaching winter and two feet of snow that’s expected. The tent cities will also bring their own problems with medical aid staff expecting to se a huge rise in TB, Scabies, serious burns and water-born illnesses. The number of the destitute in Musafrabad perhaps gives an indication of the scale of the disaster that the NGOs are predicting over the next 3 months.

GS